Image I want to use but has a glare on labels

Image that has no glare on label

I want us the image with the completely blown out white background, but replace its label with the one in the other image that has no glare. How best should I do this? I tried a few ways which didn't look very good. I tried to mask the layer and paint over the label with a brush, also tried using the pen tool, but I'd always leave a sliver left over and couldn't quite get it too look flawless.

2 Answers 2


Sorry, but your labels with glare are sharper than the no-glare ones. So, it's better to try to fix the originals.

You can make a selection of one label at a time, find curves adjustment which lifts up the contrast and then fix the introduced color cast with selective desaturation and lightness increase by applying Hue&Saturation in the same selection.

The color cast is an unfortunate consequence of contrast lifting in RGB images. More clever working, for ex. visiting in the Lab color mode would remove the color boost problem. As well one could use blending modes.

The edges can become dark, but that can be fixed by pushing white against the selection border with the smudge tool. An example:

enter image description here

The selection is made with the quick selection tool. This curve removes a great part of the reflection, but generates some yellow dirt. It's fixed by opening the Hue&Saturation adjustment and desaturating+making lighter a hue range near yellow. All settings are essential!

enter image description here

The corrosive attention was selected with the polygonal lasso. The best curve was different and it left a faint reflection + some yellow dirt. The reflection remnant was dark red.

enter image description here

The edges got unwanted black stripes - maybe a bad selection or they were already dark. Keep the selection and push with the smudge tool wite fill color against the selection border. This is the result:

enter image description here

Not asked (like the whole answer):

Get a tripod. Then you can take overall sharp images. To get them you must use manually adjusted small aperture and long exposure. There's no glares if you have no bright light behind the camera.The light should become elsewhere than behind the camera! Prepare the light for it! Get some photograph technique guidance. If you have a tripod it's no problem if the small aperture and the not so bright light make the exposure long.

Use so high optical (not a digital one!) zoom that you get the subject grabbed in as big size as there's room in the image. I know that you cannot go too close because the perspective becomes exaggerated.

  • I'm shooting on a tripod using a fujifilm X-T2, F8, ISO 100, 55mm, 1/125, manual focus. I'm using 3 strobe lights. One is a 40 inch softbox positioned behind the subject and used to produce the white background, the other 2 are strip boxes with a grid used to light the foreground object. Here's a picture of my setup: i.imgur.com/fu0a1tI.jpg Feb 6, 2020 at 15:39
  • So you have already got a bunch of good gear for the job. It's time to find good placements and angular positions for them to move the glare out of the labels. With 150 mm lens you can go a bit further and still get the target in a big size. The Background should be further away to get sharper silhouette.
    – user82991
    Feb 6, 2020 at 16:41
  • I'll try some different lighting arrangements to get the glare off the label. I believe the glare is coming from the two strip boxes positioned in front of the object at an angle, which produces the two vertical strips across the object. I currently only have a 18-55mm zoom lens and a 16mm prime lens. Looking to buy either the 56mm f1.4 prime or lens or the 80mm macro lens. The further I am from the object does that reduce glare and give a greater foreground to background separation? Feb 6, 2020 at 17:07
  • I noticed with the softbox lighting as the background the light tends to wrap around the object and makes it hard for me achieve a clear object outline. I've recently been using black foamcore boards on each side to reduce this effect. Feb 6, 2020 at 17:08
  • Bigger camera distance = less exaggerated perspective and still maximal object size. Portrait photographers do not use under 100 mm (reduced to 35 mm sensor size) otherwise the nose is too big. Your apparent BG size must be only slightly bigger than the apparent object size. Beware overexposure at the edges of the object! Shoot as RAW to have room for corrections.
    – user82991
    Feb 6, 2020 at 17:19

Not sure I understand.. copy, paste, color correct. Is that not working for you?

The labels themselves are very easy to copy because you really don't have to be all that accurate with any selection. They are white labels with white at the edges, so merely select the interior of the labels, no need to try and carefully match the outer edges. I just used the Polygonal Lasso to quickly grab the inner area of each label (separately) and copied.

enter image description here

Color correcting can be a challenge due to the overly dark labels in the second image. I had to split the top label into two parts so I could correct each half separately. And this was quick.. much more time could be expended on correcting the tones.

Note that the top image is bad in different ways in both your photos. If you are seeking absolutely crisp appearance, the optimum way to achieve that would be to retype the top label reconstructing its contents entirely. Which is what I would ultimately do if the image were destined for reproduction.

I'd also probably reconstruct the Corrosive label as well. Especially since that artwork can probably be found in a vector format for free as it appears here. It's a fairly standard label.

  • Thanks great adjustments! Do you just suggest adding the labels into the picture in photoshop and take an image of this the drum. Feb 6, 2020 at 15:42
  • @DanielTaki If clarity of the labels is of great concern, then thats what I would do. The labels could both probably be found and then it's merely a matter of a slight puppet warp to make them curve slightly on the barrel.
    – Scott
    Feb 6, 2020 at 16:15
  • I mean... Corrosive label PDF/PNG (Scroll down to find it). The other one isn't as easy to find
    – Scott
    Feb 6, 2020 at 16:17
  • Wow that worked perfectly. The other label we generate on our own using Microsoft word. Should I use another program to generate vector file of the label? Feb 6, 2020 at 17:14
  • @DanielTaki I would merely output to PDF from Word and then use that PDF for Photoshop.
    – Scott
    Feb 6, 2020 at 17:44

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