As correctly noted in this answer, the alignment tool selects the top most layer where ever you click, no matter what layer you choose.
The best way to solve this problem for me is using the Crop to content action for all layers so they take up as little space as posible. After that the selection of the alignment tool works more accurately.
This is going unnoticed but I have a feeling that the SCALE DOWN command is blurring a lot more than it should. This wasn't the default behaviour of GIMP in older versions. So there is definitely a problem with this software. We all know that scaling an image renders its properties lost but this isn't the case here. There is something wrong with GIMP 2.10 ...
The settings are automatically saved when you apply them, you can retrieve them using the drop-down selector at the top of the Levels dialog:
By clicking the + icon on the right, you can also save the settings with a more descriptive name.
Possibly a bug.
When I repeat your steps, in the image print size (Image>Print size) the print definition has been reset to 72PPI (and since the size in pixels hasn't changed, this gives the strange print size).
Forcing the print definition back to 300PPI seems to fix it for good (doesn't change with later exports or edits).
PS: made a bug report
GIMP does not support UFRAW. Open a RAW file directly in GIMP and you'll see
Opening '/path/to/file/_DSC0001.NEF' failed: There is no RAW loader installed to open 'Raw Nikon' files.
GIMP currently supports these RAW loaders:
- darktable (http://www.darktable.org/), at least 1.7
- RawTherapee (http://rawtherapee.com/), at least 5.2
If you use Nikon's own ViewNX-i [available for free from Nikon] it can
Link edited to hopefully now always find the latest version
a) batch convert to jpg [Export, set parameters, Convert]
& more importantly …
b) make a much better job of knowing what the camera's settings were supposed to be than any 3rd party app.
Stop using Photoshop for the 3D part. There are better options out there, and free. I will dive into it later.
Study the wonderful and profound paper I made about projections. https://www.otake.com.mx/Apuntes/Imagen/EnviromentMaps/ The basic idea is that you need to understand that putting a 2D image into a 3D sphere is a bit complicated and you need to ...
You can find some of them here (code by ben): https://www.shadertoy.com/view/XdS3RW
Keep in mind, however, that it's a very common problem that does not have a perfect known solution (at least to my knowledge). Most of the time you can approximate what PS does, but every now and then there's a subtle difference that no one just knows what's happening.
Too long for a comment, so daring an answer, even though I'm not an expert in planet design. I see several problems with your moon, if its surface is not flat:
If there is relief, the edges of the moon against deep space must be somewhat jaggy (and of course match the relief near the edge).
Shadows cannot be the same everywhere. There are almost no shadows ...
It's not a bug, and reinstalling GIMP won't fix it.
From your screenshot I can see the problem. The layer you have selected is hidden, and another potential problem is that the top layer is visible and is therefore covering the selected layer below.
To edit a layer in GIMP it must be visible. You must enable the "eye" icon in the layers panel for the layer ...
If all your shapes are on a transparent layer you can use Alpha to Selection on the layer, to make one selection of all the shapes, then apply the Stroke Selection all in one go.
To automate this, software such as Photoshop has layer effects which can be applied non-destructively to a layer, so that when you paint on the layer it can apply an ...
It's not a bug, but a difference in behaviour. When you paste in GIMP, unlike Photoshop, it creates a floating selection layer. Open the layers panel and you will see it. You need to promote the floating selection to a proper layer. To do that hit the new layer icon (in the layers panel) directly after pasting or press Shift+Ctrl+N. Now the selection tools ...
Solution similar to @BillyKerr's #2:
Add a group
Add a first layer, filled with the pattern, set to "Multiply" mode
Add a second transparent layer below the pattern layer
Paint in white on that second layer
An advantage of this technique is that you can have several layers in the group under the pattern layer, including text layers (that would be ...
There has to be a way, since you can choose pictures in the standard brush options (like, the green pepper). I just don't recall the solution but in the past I have used both regular patterns and patterns I created. That's been a while though. Anyway, if the program can use the pepper as a brush, it can use any other picture as well. Try searching the ...
Yes there is setting you could use, but not with the Brush tool. Select the Clone tool instead, then in the Tool Options choose a brush shape, set the Source option to "Pattern", and Alignment to "Aligned", and choose a pattern to paint with from the Patterns dialog.
There's also another technique. You could fill a layer with a pattern, or even just open ...
There was a plugin in the GIMP plugin registry that did this. It's archived here now.
Some time ago I translated this to Python and it ran a lot faster.
Here's the result of its application to the image in the original question:
Here's the result of its application to the image in Alan's answer:
Anyway here's the code of the plugin:
from __future__ ...
Python "scripts" are technically plug-ins, not scripts, so they got in the "plug-ins" subdirectory.
On Linux, they should have the executable flag set
They have to "register" with Gimp (they make one or more calls to the register(...) functions
Typical debug technique:
Add a bunch of print statements, typically:
a wide print '*********************' at ...
Possible solution for Gimp 2.10:
Put your image in a group
Add a layer above it, set layer mode to Color erase (this mode is new in 2.10)
Paint the layer with the color you want to make transparent
Use additional layers for additional colors (you could use several shades of green...)
You can put a layer outside and below the group to check transparency over ...
You can try GIMP's Color > Color to alpha. You must combine with layer masks
one version which is otherwise well separated from the background but the wings are still green
another version where the wings are transparent as wanted but something else green has also vanished
Hopefully you have a high resolution photo. The shown version in the question is ...
I wonder how you produce them...
Exported as a .PAT, you have to give a name which is used
Exported as a PNG, either:
image has a comment (see Image>Properties), and the comment is used
image has no comment and the filename is used
In any case you can easily filter your images: instead of putting them directly in the patterns directory, create a ...
Tried a few things. So far the best result I have is by using the focus blur plugin (independent plugin or the one in the GMIC collection) on a vertical rod:
For the bottom, circle selection filled with color, blurred and then scaled (or apply perspective to be strictly correct), and a slightly lowered opacity:
To whiten the light:
alpha-to-selection on ...
This is one easy way if you have some beam images taken in otherwise black darkness. I used your example beam:
This works in any photo editor which has layers and blending mode ADD. GIMP is one of them. I used Photoshop, which doesn't offer any advantage in this case.
I added 3 copies of your beam as separate layers with layer blending mode=ADD. I applied ...
There is a script to render a grid as a path, and you can use View>Snap to active path to have the path act as a guide. But you would also have to move the path afterwards to center it (Move tool in "Path" mode), since the script only takes an offset. The script is here.
As far as I know, there's no automatic way to centre the grid, since it would depend on the size of the grid, and the size of the canvas. I suppose one could write or find a script/extension for this, but I don't know of one. However, it's easy enough to work out the required offset using some simple arithmetic
For the sake of an example, suppose you have a ...
If you can paint on opaque areas but not on transparent areas, make sure that the layer is not "alpha-locked". The alpha lock is the checkerboard icon in the Lock: line at the top of the Layers list. When it is set (this is sometimes hard to see), you cannot change the opacity of the pixels, so you cannot paint on transparent pixels.
If you cannot paint on ...