Some initial notes
Let's make a google search (images):
1) You can see how difficult is to make an abstraction of a crystal. Verey few logos succeed there.
2) "How to make an illustration" depends on what kind of illustration do you want. The key word here is "style".
Depending on what is this ...
Ok I am up to the challenge...
First we need to re-frame the image.
Now, What kind of floor do you need?
For an Ultra Glossy Floor, just copy your door, Skew it, mask it and add a gradient opacity.
The same for the frame of the door.
For a Satin floor, apply a gaussian blur to this same object and use some mesh fill to add the spilled light. Play with ...
I am naming these chapters starting with V as the second part of this post.
The first part has renders of 3D models, the second half of the post has vector based images.
Chapter V. Illustration
One thing that I was considering on my other answer on this same question is the premise that Illustration has an artistic interpretation that can or can not ...
I think I'd use Layer > New adjustment layer > Curves or Layer > New adjustment layer > Levels with a Layer mask.
Start with black and white image with the trees or what ever.
Black background and white foreground.
Select > All
Edit > Copy ( the tree layer )
You can hide the layer once you've copied it.
Layer > New adjustment layer &...
To reproduce the effect you made in Gimp with Inkscape I took the following steps:
Create filled circles and make them a group
Create a large circle with the gradient circular fill (here black for illustration)
Duplicate the group of colored circles to then create a unified path (Path > Union)
Select this new path and the gradient circle to cut out the ...
You have it wrong... 3 Light setup is for photos in a studio. You do not have that outside.
On this planet, at least, we have one Sun.
And the light it casts bounces all over the place illuminating a bit the surroundings. This is called ambient light.
If you have an old rendering program, you can fake in a primitive way this bounced light using a light on ...
Layer above image, filled with 100% blue, Blending Mode set to Color.
Layer above blue, filled with 100% Magenta, Blending Mode set to Color. -- Add Layer mask to hide portions of magenta color.
The specific image in the question may have started as a full color image and a masked greyscale version was used to allow the neon sign to remain in full color ...
Match what's there in most instances and whenever possible.
The light is stationary, therefore all object should cast the same angle shadow. The closer together objects are, the similar the shadow angle will be. Based on the plant in that photo, the primary light source is almost directly in front of the plant.
If you draw lines to indicate the shadow on ...
The only ways to do this are to:
Use "actual" 3D rendering (like WebGL) for the UI which isn't usually recommended for UI because it's harder to make UIs with just WebGL, especially making them accessible. Or
Loop through each instance of each relevant item, calculate where it is with respect to your fake light, and adjust the shadows based on ...
A visual effect, whether in Ai or Ps, isn't always attainable by applying effects to a single layer, far less a single object. The richness of the feature sets we have available in these programs can lead you down a blind alley, trying to achieve everything you want by piling on effects to a single object when, just as in painting, what you need to do is use ...
First pick a spot for your light source and rough idea of where that would cause the light to be. I'm going to stick it over here:
Then use the Pen Tool to create the area the light will be visible:
Create a new layer and make your path in a vector mask:
I used a White to Transparent gradient and started from about where my lightsource is in the direction ...
Ok....but what did you try? what are your starting files?
There are many ways of doing this but since you are eager to use Blending modes, here you go:
have a tree or whatever without a background
convert the tree to B&W (shift + ctrl + u)
invert the tree (ctlr + i)
place it over the wood texture and use Color Dodge as a blending mode
further play ...
I am sure there are many ways to do this, but this method gives a somewhat similar effect, and isn't too complicated.
Open an image in Photoshop and click Image > Mode > Lab colour
Add a new Colour Balance adjustment layer. And set the values as follows
Shadows: Green/Magenta +100, Blue/Yellow -100
Midtones: Green/Magenta -50, Blue/Yellow -100
The shape is divided to parts which have different gradient fills. The angles can be quite arbitary because in real world seen metallic gradients are as well affected by the environment, only be sure that there's contrast between differently tilted surface facets.
Radial gradients can create more limited highlight areas than linear gradients. Best control ...
Same looking phenomenas which are not software effects:
Chromatic aberration in camera lenses due low quality or intentional design for this effect
Distortion when things are watched through non-uniformly thick glass or other transparent solid or liquid.
RGB convergence error in cathode ray tube displays
In all cases red, green and blue components of ...
To me they both look like classic low-key setups.
The upper image has a two light setup with a low-intensity key that's basically white behind the subjects and quite low (probably a luminous poly based on the implied area) and a lower-level blue-shifted rimlight to the high right, also behind the subjects (as most rim lights are). There may also be a ...
Generally speaking, you only want to paint on a photo as a last resort. Ideally, you would work on other layers, and use masks and blends and opacity to combine those layers with the photo layer into the result you want.
Starting with this original:
… one way to wash out the colors is to blend it with an inverted version of the same photo:
open the photo ...
First off: Beware that Inkscape is for vector illustrations, so the kind of image effects you're asking for are not Inkscape's strongest suit...
The result you will get with programs like Inkscape is bound to look "flatter" and less realistic than a full-blown light simulation a.k.a. 3D rendering / ray tracing. If you'd rather go in that direction, check out ...
There are a lot of ways you can do this, and it really depends on the overall look you are personally going for. The ad you referenced is a bit different as it doesn't have a sharp light source as the image you are working with. Here is a quick workup of possibly the simplest way to do this:
Using a mask to create the overall boundaries of the light ...
I'm by not means an expert but light baking is great if you want to watch your calorie intake.
Other than that, in relation to 3D programs, I believe it means rendering your object with lighting on it. This means, reusing this same object the lights will already be "baked" into it and you will no longer have live lighting. In other words you are "hard-...
The first and most basic concept of light you should know is:
Direct light vs Diffuse or soft light. You probably already know it on source lights, I will describe it because is the same concept.
You have a spot light, where the beam source is a tiny spot (a) and cast a hard shadow (b).
When you have a bigger sized source light it becomes a diffused one. ...
Look at images of real gold! I mean sure you can try to solve this issue with plain thinking. But truth is, gold has a very special reflective behavior.
The trick to gold is that its reflection is actually red in color, especially apparent in inter gold reflections (see above and this stock image). But be careful, not very many people can afford to have a ...
This is one easy way if you have some beam images taken in otherwise black darkness. I used your example beam:
This works in any photo editor which has layers and blending mode ADD. GIMP is one of them. I used Photoshop, which doesn't offer any advantage in this case.
I added 3 copies of your beam as separate layers with layer blending mode=ADD. I applied ...
You could try using Content-Aware Fill.
Make a selection of the area you want to fill.
I've just used the Quick Selection Tool to make a very crude selection. The more you refine this selection, the better result you get.
Enter Edit > Content-Aware Fill. Use the brush to make sure that only the pattern you want to repeat is colored (it's green by ...
This is more basic experimentation than anything....
It's possible to start with a photo and remove color (desaturate) and boost contrast (levels) then use a number of different filters to achieve the engraving appearance.
This sample uses Flaming Pear's India Ink filter (no affiliation). And uses a few variations for that filter in the hand and for the ...
They are manipulated photos, I guess. The version in the middle looks tricky to be made only with effects, without drawing manually the parts which look simplified bones. Versions in the left and in the right use half-toning. There's plenty of noise inserted. To start one needs a photo where the limb is about 1000 px long to get enough resolution. The image ...
There are a few ways this could have been accomplished.
For that particular piece, since the source files can be downloaded and examined, the darker areas are created, filled with a solid color and grouped. Then the blend mode is changed to Multiply for the group - via the Transparency Panel or Appearance Panel.
So, since you have the metal texture on a lot of your image, it's going to be difficult (and probably not desirable) to get a "plasticy" gloss on your figure.
However I can recommend a couple of simple techniques to amp up the reflectiveness that you've already got going on.
First let's look again at your original image.
Now, let's start off by using the ...